Inside Loop - Dispatch #2 | A long weekend in the Luberon
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Welcome to dispatch #2 of “Inside Loop” - a bespoke travel consultancy, tailored just for you. This newsletter will be arriving in your inbox every two weeks, and all the editions will be archived and live here.
My second newsletter is actually written in situ - I’d wanted to get all my tips down for this little corner of Provence I find myself in, and thought it would be fun to launch it while I am actually here. Like many, I watched Ridley Scott’s iconic film A Good Year many moons ago and decided that I needed to come and discover this part of France. Coincidentally, my boyfriend’s family has a house 3km from where the film is set, and it since has become one of my favourite places to spend time in. There’s so many ways to weave together a stay here, whether long or short, so I thought I’d start with an itinerary for a long-weekend which is easily doable from most parts of Europe, or as an add-on to a Paris trip or wider South of France trip.
1. Getting There
The Luberon is easily accessible. You can either fly to Marseille and drive there in just under an hour (renting a car is highly advisable - the car rental depot is right in front of arrivals and doesn’t require a sticky shuttle ride after a flight) OR take a 2h40 minute high-speed TGV train from Paris to Avignon and rent a car upon arrival.
2. Where to Stay
I recommend using Gordes as your base - not only is the most picturesque of the Luberon villages/towns, but it’s centrally located.
5* option: Airelles Gordes, La Bastide - From €800 a night - swanky & luxurious. Right in the heart of Gordes. One of the best views of the valley and the nicest lap pool for an afternoon dip.
4* option: Villa Hautvallon - from €400 a night - a charming yet upscale guesthouse with big bedrooms and a stunning garden / pool area.
3* option: Le Jas de Gordes - From €200 a night - light and airy rooms with AC, and a big swimming pool for cooling down.
There are also plenty of villa rentals and airbnbs in the area - including my boyfriend’s family house which is available for weekly rent (quick plug!).
3. When To Go
The Luberon / Provence in general can be very warm in peak summer months. I recommend visiting from mid April / end of May and mid-September / late October.
** If Easter happens to be later in the year, it’s a prime time to visit. The Easter markets are absolutely amazing in this part of France.
3. Day-By-Day Itinerary
Thursday Evening - arrive at your accommodation and check-in. If you arrive in time for drinks & dinner, have a pre-dinner sundowner Kir Royale in the town square at the tourist-y La Renaissance, where Russell Crowe infamously tells two obnoxious American tourists that “McDonald’s is in Avignon, fish and chips in Marseilles!”. Follow this with an easy bite to eat in the heart of Gordes at La Bastide de Pierres which serves up Italian food (the only non French-meal you will have all weekend!)
Photo: La Renaissance - Gordes town square.
Friday - wake up and enjoy a delicious hotel breakfast. Drive 40 mins to the stunning village of Lourmarin. This is the longest drive you will do all weekend, but it’s worth it! Friday is their market day and it’s one of the best in the whole region. Not only do they have the usual food & vegetables stands, they also have an excellent antiques market too. Take your time to explore the town, maybe even walk up to the Château de Lourmarin. I love having a late lunch in the sun with oysters on the terrace at L’Insolite and then a drink at Le Bistrot for some people watching. A fun shop I like to walk into is Panama by Ophelia, which (unsurprisingly) sells all shapes and sizes of Panama hats. Return to your hotel for the afternoon to relax, and then have a mind-blowing dinner in the stunning courtyard setting of Le Mas (5 min drive from Gordes town) - book ahead!
Photo: Lourmarin in the sun on market day.
Saturday - have a lazy morning in your hotel and prepare for a big day out! I highly recommend renting e-bikes for the day and leisurely exploring the Luberon on two wheels. We usually rent bikes for the day for €40 ish from the fantastic Philippe (links to his whatsapp), who delivers them to the house, so I’m sure he’d do the same for hotel guests. The range on his bikes is substantial, and we usually do 40/50km in one day - the hills aren’t an issue when you have e-bikes! There are tons of bicycle lanes, so you’re rarely on a main road. Start from Gordes and make your way to the Sénanque Abbey, a stunning Cistercian abbey near the village of Gordes. Then make your way to the fortress town of Oppède le vieux (coming from Oppidum - the Latin word for 'fortified town) for a late morning coffee at Le Petit Café. Leave your bikes tied up and climb up to the top of the town to see the hillside church Église Notre-Dame Dalidon. Then make your way to the town of Lacoste and have lunch with an insane view at Café de France. If you still have energy to keep going, make your way to the quaint perched village of Bonnieux via the dreamy town of Menerbes which directly faces Lacoste (over Easter they have the most amazing pottery market in this town). You could then end your cycle tour by having a wine tasting at Château la Canorgue (10 mins from Bonnieux - Russell Crowe’s house in “A Good Year”) and then make your way back to your hotel. After a long day out, you will want to have a relaxed dinner in the next door town of Goult at the delicious arch-walled restaurant La Bartavelle, or visit equally as close Saint-Pantaléon and eat on the terrace at Le Bistrot des Roques (weather dependent).
Photo: trusty e-bikes & sweeping Luberon from the top of the Luberon.
Sunday: depending on your departure time, try to get an early start today and get to the riverside town of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue early for the market opening (20 mins by car). This is the biggest and best of all the Luberon markets, with 300+ stalls and some unique vintage & antique shopping. They have a specially dedicated ginormous antique market over Easter Sunday too. Some say once you’ve done one market in France, you’ve done them all. But this does not apply to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market! Spend about two hours here, or as long as you like, and then make your way to lunch at Auberge des Carrières Luberon - make sure you request the terrace when booking, and ensure you have enough time to properly enjoy this lunch spot - it’s one of the best! If you have an extra night here you could do an afternoon visit of the unique “terracotta town” of Roussillon or have dinner in Bonnieux at L’Arome, to round off your French gastronomical journey.
Photo: Basket heaven at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market.
You could easily spend longer in the Luberon and there are many more places to explore for a longer trip - so do get in touch if you’d like some help planning!
…and that’s all! If you enjoyed reading this newsletter please do encourage friends to also subscribe. And don’t hesitate to reach out if you want tailored travel tips on any upcoming trips!
🧡 Camilla